A Journey of New Discoveries
I just returned from a nine-day journey through Ladakh, a trip that blended old memories with new discoveries. This time, instead of a jeep or car, I joined a motorbiking group, riding routes that sit high on every biking enthusiast’s bucket list.
The Challenge of Altitude
Motorbiking in Ladakh isn’t just about the thrill of the ride; it comes with the added challenge of high altitude. You’re always operating above 3,000 metres, often climbing past 5,000 metres, and even spending nights above 4,000 metres. The landscape is generally cold and dry with bright sunny days, but this trip was marked by unusual rain that added to the adventure, closing passes at short notice, and testing our resilience.
Bikes Built for the Mountains
Among the many bikes on these routes, the Royal Enfield Himalayan (411cc) proved to be the most reliable companion. Whether navigating dirt tracks, fording small streams, or cruising swiftly across remote stretches, it was steady and powerful. The sense of achievement in being photographed at Khardung La (17,982 feet) with the Karakoram range in the background is hard to describe; pure joy etched in memory. We did, however, miss out on reaching Umling La (19,024 feet), the world’s highest motorable pass, as it was closed due to unusually heavy snowfall.
Routes and Reroutes
Our planned circuit was Leh–Nubra–Pangong–Hanle–Leh, but with passes closed, we rerouted to Leh–Nubra–Hanle–Pangong–Leh. The route offered everything a thrill-seeker could wish for: rugged remoteness, unpredictable tracks, ancient mountaintop monasteries, dramatic landscapes, and the constant test of high altitude.
The mountains themselves feel alive, sometimes embracing you closely, at other times pulling back to reveal sweeping vistas. More than once, I felt the urge to leave the solitary track and ride up into the peaks, just to know what it might feel like to stand on top of the world. Wildlife sightings are rare, but we were lucky to see a fox darting across the road one dusky evening, and wild asses were relatively easy to spot.
Where to Stay in Ladakh
Accommodation in Leh has evolved since my last visit. While luxury options remain limited in Nubra and Pangong, clean stays with ensuite facilities are widely available, perfectly adequate for adventure seekers.
In Leh, however, boutique properties have sprung up alongside classics like The Grand Dragon. Hotels such as Chospa and Dolkhar are stylish, intimate, and even prepared to operate in winter. A personal favourite is Nimmu House, a charming heritage property about half an hour from town. Since it is advisable to lie low for the first couple of days to acclimatise, staying at Nimmu House at the start may actually be a better option, as it sits at a slightly lower altitude than Leh town.
Beyond Biking: Other Adventures
Adventure in Ladakh isn’t confined to biking. Rafting on the Zanskar River is another highlight, with stretches ranging from a quick 90 minutes to a full-day run between Chilling and the Indus–Zanskar confluence.
On the cultural side, I was delighted by my visit to Leh Palace. Its beauty, majesty, and panoramic views are striking, but what captivated me most was discovering a hidden passage that winds from the palace down to the old market through forgotten routes. I can never tire of wandering into the old Leh market, and it is a fascinating place from every aspect- tourists, travellers, locals, as it has and sells everything from groceries to vegetables and fruits, clothes, warm to super warm to summer wear, trekking gear, cosmetics, medicines, sleeping bags, books, and a variety of restaurants.
An Unusual Beginning, A Lasting Memory
Returning to Ladakh after more than a decade was deeply rewarding. It reinforced cherished old memories while adding many new ones of rain-slick passes, mountain embraces, and the freedom of two wheels on some of the highest roads in the world.
This trip was made even more memorable by its unusual beginning. My Air India morning flight to Leh had to return to Delhi without even attempting to land due to a technical reason. Only after a change of aircraft did I finally arrive in the afternoon. I had never before landed at a mountain destination in the afternoon, and it felt like a rare and fittingly unusual start to an extraordinary trip.